Posts Tagged backgammon tips
Strategies in Backgammon -1
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 18th, 2009
To the casual observer there would seem to be no logical way in which a game of backgammon develops from the starting position. However upon closer scrutiny , much like in chess, there are several different strategies one can use when playing backgammon. There are 8 defined types of strategy or game,
1. Running Game (or Race)
2. High Anchor
3. Mutual Holding Game
4. Low Anchor
5. Blitz
6. Prime versus Prime
7. Back Game
8. Scramble
Occasionally there is a game that does not fall under one of the specific strategies above , however in 97% of the games played this is not the case. In order to be a good backgammon player it is essential that one has an understanding of all the ‘basic backgammon strategies”.
It is important not only to understand how to develop a game into one of these particular types but also to, once having achieved this, to know how to play each positional type and the associated doubling strategies. This last point is particularly important as the understanding of the correct doubling strategies will gain you far more points than the understanding of how to move the checkers.
Running Game
Of the eight types, by far the easiest is the running game and the easiest example of this is where both sides start by rolling 65 twice and run both their back checkers out to their mid-points – as shown below. After this there will be no more contact between the two armies and the winner will be the side that rolls the highest numbers on the dice.

High Anchor
A high anchor game is one where you have moved your back checkers at least as far as your mid-point whilst your opponent still holds either your 4pt, 5pt or bar point. An example of this is shown in the position below.

Mutual Holding Game
A mutual holding game is one where both sides have a high anchor (a high anchor is one of three points, your opponent’s 4pt, 5pt or bar point). This position occurs after the sequence: Red 43: 24/20, 13/10; Black 66: 24/18(2), 13/7(2); Red 43: 24/20, 13/10.

Low Anchor
A low anchor game can occur in many different ways but is characterised by one player holding his opponent’s 1,2 or 3 point whilst the opponent has escaped his back checkers. The position below is a typical low anchor game where black has escaped his back checkers and red is trapped on black’s ace point.

Blitz
The blitz is the most volatile of all the game types. A blitz is characterised by one player desperately trying to get an anchor in his opponent’s home board whilst his opponent does everything he can to prevent it. The position below is typical of the early stages of a blitz where red has split his checkers with a 52 played 13/8, 24/22 and black has replied with 55, played 8/3(2)*, 6/1(2)* putting two red checkers on the bar.

Prime vs. Prime
Prime against prime is characterised by both players having one or more of his opponent’s checkers trapped behind a blockade of 4, 5 or 6 points. Prime vs. prime games require fine judgement and are amongst the most difficult of all backgammon game types to play. In a blitz, once you have started it, most of the moves are clear, in a prime v prime each individual move will require much more thought.
The position shown below is a typical prime vs. prime game with both players having two checkers trapped behind 5-point primes.

Back Game
The backgame game is when you hold two or more points in your opponent’s home board, usually as a result of lots of blots being hit. Now an excellent piece of advice: DO NOT play back games at all costs. When they go well they are wonderful, but if you lose, then you are likely to lose either a gammon or a backgammon.
The position below shows a typical back game where red is playing the back game by holding black’s 1-pt and 2-pt. As we shall see in future articles which two points you hold in your opponent’s home board are critical to the likely success, or not, of your back game.

Important Starting Moves in Backgammon -1
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 15th, 2009

There are two very important things you should know about opening moves in backgammon
1. The experts, having studied opening moves for many years, and having the benefit of experience, the use of advanced computer programs, in combination with tremendous personal skill and intuition, have basically all agreed on what are the best opening moves for every possible dice combination.
2. If you any move other than the ones that the experts recommend, you are reducing your chance of winning the game and match.
Its that simple. You must memorize the best opening moves, and play them. Of course it will help you greatly to also understand the reason behind each move, and it will help you to also go to the next step and know and understand what the experts recommend you do on the “next” roll in response to opening moves if/when your opponent gets the opening rolls.
And of course , none of that will be of much help unless you understand how to play for the rest of the game.
But since it is impossible to learn the entire theory of how to become a backgammon expert from a single article, let me offer some help regarding the opening moves.
There is no question what to do with 3-1, 6-1, 4-2, 6-5. How to play these opening moves has been agreed to for a number of years, and the correct plays are correct for ANY match score, whether you are winning or losing by a little or a by a lot, or tied.
For all other moves, there is some debate; there are some different plays depending on the score; and the decision is not less clear.
Let’s take care of the definite ones first. With 3-1 you create your 5 point. Not only do most experts agree that the 5 point is the most important point to make (for a multitude of reasons), but any other 3-1 play exposes you to an unnecessary chance of getting hit.
Why is getting hit so bad, especially early on in the game? Because one of the overriding principles of backgammon is that every game, no matter how complex, ends up as a race to see who can get his checkers around the board and bear off first.
Everything else that happens between the first roll and the removal of the last checker is just preparation for who the one is that gets to remove that last checker. Even games that end as a result of a double/drop are because the dropper determined that he is less likely to be the one removing their last checker first.
With 6-1 you make your bar point (7 point) as that is the second most important point, and again, any other move leaves exposed blots (single checkers on a point).
With 4-2 you make your 4 point because that is also an important point, and again, you don’t want to be leaving blots. And with 6-5 you simply run a back checker all the way because it is very good for the race and again, you do not leave any exposed blots.





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