Archive for category Backgammon
How to Play Chouette Backgammon -2
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 19th, 2009
The Box means nothing.
Players who take cubes because they want to keep the box are giving away money. I don’t care what you think your edge is in the game, when you take cubes that should be dropped, you are throwing money away. At the end of the day I know many players who ended up losers instead of winners simply because they “took for the box.”
Watch, learn and listen.
One of the reasons I often play in chouettes with players who are as good or better than I (apart from the fact that it is a lot of fun) is that it is a real learning experience. I get a chance to see what plays these better players prefer, and what cubes they take or drop. You not only learn from the better players, they can help you make money by listening to their plays and following their cube action. (If I am on the same side as Dave, and he’s not doubling, I know I probably would be wrong to turn the cube, and if Luke tells me to run instead of make the 5 point, I run.)
Managing Your Cash.
In most games with reasonable stakes, almost all the cubes are at the 2 and 4 levels. The one or two times that you see an 8 or 16 cube could mean the success or failure of the entire day. You should be more inclined to make settlements on these cubes, even if you are giving away a little on the settlement. Of course you are giving away money if you drop a 16 cube that is a take, I’m not saying you should just drop it, but if it’s really close, or there are lots of gammon risks, maybe you should be more inclined to drop it.
The key is to try to avoid getting yourself in the position of having to decide on large cubes. When you give a 4 or 8 cube, you might be a little slower giving that cube so you are more likely to get a drop and less likely to see a recube.
Conversely, keep in mind that your opponent has the same concerns that you have, and he might be more likely to drop a 16 cube that he should take, this is where knowing your opponent becomes a key factor..
The Score Sheet isnt really relevant.
While I do believe in money management, I do not believe the score sheet should matter at all. If you are plus 8 on the sheet, that is no more a factor to taking or dropping a cube than if you won 8 points yesterday, or last week, or last year. If it’s on the sheet, it is “booked” and it is yours, and it should not affect your play in any way.
If you let it affect your play, all you do is give your opponents a way to exploit you. (Of course I am referring here to standard money play…if you are playing “table stakes” or in a competition where the winner is the one with the most points, the sheet becomes critical in all decisions.)
Be on the lookout for Cheats.
Any time there is money involved, there is the potential for cheaters. I will not go in to all the ways people can cheat, but I can assure you that I have seen virtually all of them over the years, and I even have a list of people I will not play because I believe they are not trustworthy. Even “honest” people can make “mistakes” that can cost you money if you are not sharp and alert.
People do make mistakes on the score sheet; people do make illegal moves (accidentally or otherwise) that improve their position; people do have “friends” that they might not play their best against when their friend (or secret partner) is in the box.
Some of the more extreme methods of cheating included loaded dice, magnets, dice manipulation, being slow to pick up dice to force an opponent to roll over if he has a good roll, late doubling after you know how the opponent is going to act, and many others. As my granddad once told me, “Trust everyone, but cut the cards.”
How to Play Chouette Backgammon -1
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 19th, 2009
Chouette backgammon, is played by 3 or more players competing for points or money over the same board and is one of the most fun and challenging forms of gambling and competition I have ever experienced. Personally I think it is far more interesting and fun than any card game or table game you can find anywhere, including Vegas!
Over the years I have learned much about how to increase my odds in Chouette play from some of the best players in the world, but I have probably learned just as much from the old fashioned school of hard knocks.
These strategies will either make or save you money when you play in chouettes.
Be the best player at the table.
The number one way to win in chouettes is to be the best player in the game. This is my “trick” to winning any competition. If you are about to sit down at the table, and most of the players there are better than you, then do NOT sit down. If you aren’t the best, you still have a reasonable chance if you are better than most playersin the game. If you do get into a game where there are clearly much better players, be sure you are playing for very low or social stakes that you don’t mind losing in return for the fun and lesson(s) that you are about to receive.
Play for comfortable stakes.
If you cannot afford to take a 32 or 64 cube when it’s a take, you should not be playing. You cannot play good backgammon if you are playing scared. It is tough to take a cube if losing means you cannot pay the rent or afford to eat. Do not get in over your head, no matter how good a player you think you are.
Know the rules of the game.
Every chouette has it’s own rules about rotation, keeping the box, partners, extras, consulting, settlements, etc. Not knowing the rules can cost you money, so find out what they are before you start to play.
Read your opponents.
Almost everyone has their own tells or patterns at the table, and reading these will make you money. Some players are extremely cautious with the cube . Some players love to gamble, and the higher the cube is, the more likely they are going to take it (double these players later on high cubes—they will l take anyway). Some players will take almost any cube if it is for the box, while others might drop almost any cube if it isn’t for the box.
Some players are reluctant to hit twice and will take a chance on leaving a direct shot (you can worry less about leaving more blots against this player). Some players will take or drop with the crowd (double these people separately if you can). Some players let you know, with their comments or body language, when they will drop or take a cube. Some players make very poor settlements (settle often with these players, particularly the bigger cubes).
Many players will be more or less aggressive depending on whether they are up or down for the day (watch the score sheet and act in accordance). Since you can take advantage of a player’s tells, it would make sense that they can do the same to you. Think about what you say or do that could give an edge to your opponents, and work on hiding or eliminating these tells or signals in your game.
How to Play Backgammon Tourney -2
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 19th, 2009
In this series of articles we are going to be looking at how to play tournament backgammon. Playing a backgammon tournament is much more difficult than playing a single game of backgammon largely due to the match score.
Backgammon tournaments are normally decided by single elimination matches in much the same way as tennis tournaments. Competitors are grouped into pairs and each pair plays a series of games to decide which player will advance to the next round. Players that are eliminated in the first round normally go into a consolation match and, if it is a big enough tournament like a World Championships, then there will be a second consolation match and ultimately a Last Chance.
Matches are played to a clearly defined number of points. Consolation and Last Chance events are always played to a smaller number of points than is the case with the main event. The first player to reach the required number of points wins the match. Points are awarded in the standard manner: 1 for a single game, 2 for a gammon and 3 for a backgammon. The doubling cube is used, so the winner receives the value of the game multiplied by the final value of the doubling cube. Thus if a player wins a gammon with the cube on 4, he wins eight points. If the players were playing a seven point match, the match would be concluded after one game.
Matches are normally played to an odd number of points and the Crawford Rule is always used. The Crawford rule states that if one player reaches a score one point short of the match (i.e. he is at match point), neither player may offer a double in the following game. This one game without doubling is called the Crawford game. After the Crawford game, if the match has not been decided, the doubling cube is available for use again and the player who is trailing in the match should double at the first possible opportunity. Automatic doubles, beavers, raccoons and the Jacoby Rule are never utilised in match play.
There is no bonus for winning more than the number of points needed to win the match. When playing a match to a certain number of points, the winner is the first person who reaches that number of points. It does not matter if he wins more than that number, or how many points his opponent has scored. The sole goal is to win the match, and the winning margin is irrelevant.
How to Play Backgammon Tourneys -3
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games, Mancala, Solitaire on January 19th, 2009
Backgammon tournament match length
The longer the match lasts the more likely the stronger player is to win as he/she has time to recover from a setback. For example losing a doubled gammon (4 points) in a match to 17 points is unfortunate but not nearly so unfortunate as losing 4 points in a match to 5 points! The early rounds of the World Championships (held at Monte Carlo each July) are played to 13 points. With each round the matches get longer and the final is played to 25 points.
Usually the better player will come out on top over such a long match but that is not always the case and backgammon tournaments are littered with examples of heavy favourites losing to rank outsiders. That is both the beauty and the frustration of backgammon. As long as dice are involved there will always be outrageous swings of fortune – and correctly so. Without such swings the game would rapidly lose its appeal to players.
A different format which was used in the (now defunct) World Cup was to play best-of-five 9 point matches. This enabled those players with highly developed match play skills to beat lesser players and thus the format is a much better test of player ability.
Time Clocks
To allow tournaments to run on schedule we are seeing the use of clocks more and more. We will look at the whole topic of time and clocks in a future article. For now suffice it to say that each player has a number of minutes for his match (determined by the length of the match). For each move he is allowed so many seconds (normally about 15) to make his move and only after those 15 seconds is the time used deducted from his allowed time.
As with playing chess if you run out of time you lose the match. This can lead to some interesting tactics towards the end of matches. As an example, a player whose opponent is very short on time will try to play a complicated games with a large number of moves in order to use up all of his opponent’s remaining time.
Conclusion
Tournament play is the ultimate in backgammon. Good money players don’t always make good tournament players. The opposite is also true because some players who excel in tournaments can’t cope with the financial pressures of high stakes money play (particularly chouettes).
To once again state the key point – the score dominates all other aspects of tournament play and as we progress we will see just what an influence that can have on play and doubling decisions.
How to Play a Backgammon Tourney -1
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 18th, 2009
We have compiled a list of tips that will be of use to those of you who are new or relatively new to the world of playing backgammon in live tournaments.
Prior to any tournament
-Be sure to converse with the tournament director ahead of time and find out exactly what division and events that you should be playing in. Usually you will want to play in the lowest division you are eligible for. If you are a pretty decent player be sure NOT to enter the Novice section as this will not be very challenging. Be sure to bring a backgammon board. If you dont have one borrow one. Use quality rounded dice and cups. Learn how to play in both directions on a backgammon board, practice this a lot.
Learn the rules of play in order to learn the legal moves, ending a turn, doubling protocol, rules for shaking the dice, etc. In order to play backgammon well you need to be able to calculate the Pip count. Learn about the basic concepts of match equity and cube strategy. In tournaments, equity plays a critical part. Aquire a copy of the entry form and accompanying tournament information and read it all very carefully. Be on time, know where you have to go to, and check when the breaks are. If there are any interesting backgammon lectures or other events, try to attend or participate in them, it will make for a more rewarding experience.
During the tournament
Any question you may have , ask the tournament staff, they are there for that purpose 
. Check the draw sheet and check how many points each match is played to. This can vary in every round of some tournaments. Do not assume anything. Write down the score everytime and check with your opponent verbally to see if he/she has the same score. Ensure that the result is reported to officials straight after the match. Be sure to have fun, relax and not stress to much about making mistakes, after all we all do 
. Remember you are there to enjoy yourself, learn about the game and meet like minded people.
Strategies in Backgammon -1
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 18th, 2009
To the casual observer there would seem to be no logical way in which a game of backgammon develops from the starting position. However upon closer scrutiny , much like in chess, there are several different strategies one can use when playing backgammon. There are 8 defined types of strategy or game,
1. Running Game (or Race)
2. High Anchor
3. Mutual Holding Game
4. Low Anchor
5. Blitz
6. Prime versus Prime
7. Back Game
8. Scramble
Occasionally there is a game that does not fall under one of the specific strategies above , however in 97% of the games played this is not the case. In order to be a good backgammon player it is essential that one has an understanding of all the ‘basic backgammon strategies”.
It is important not only to understand how to develop a game into one of these particular types but also to, once having achieved this, to know how to play each positional type and the associated doubling strategies. This last point is particularly important as the understanding of the correct doubling strategies will gain you far more points than the understanding of how to move the checkers.
Running Game
Of the eight types, by far the easiest is the running game and the easiest example of this is where both sides start by rolling 65 twice and run both their back checkers out to their mid-points – as shown below. After this there will be no more contact between the two armies and the winner will be the side that rolls the highest numbers on the dice.
High Anchor
A high anchor game is one where you have moved your back checkers at least as far as your mid-point whilst your opponent still holds either your 4pt, 5pt or bar point. An example of this is shown in the position below.
Mutual Holding Game
A mutual holding game is one where both sides have a high anchor (a high anchor is one of three points, your opponent’s 4pt, 5pt or bar point). This position occurs after the sequence: Red 43: 24/20, 13/10; Black 66: 24/18(2), 13/7(2); Red 43: 24/20, 13/10.
Low Anchor
A low anchor game can occur in many different ways but is characterised by one player holding his opponent’s 1,2 or 3 point whilst the opponent has escaped his back checkers. The position below is a typical low anchor game where black has escaped his back checkers and red is trapped on black’s ace point.
Blitz
The blitz is the most volatile of all the game types. A blitz is characterised by one player desperately trying to get an anchor in his opponent’s home board whilst his opponent does everything he can to prevent it. The position below is typical of the early stages of a blitz where red has split his checkers with a 52 played 13/8, 24/22 and black has replied with 55, played 8/3(2)*, 6/1(2)* putting two red checkers on the bar.
Prime vs. Prime
Prime against prime is characterised by both players having one or more of his opponent’s checkers trapped behind a blockade of 4, 5 or 6 points. Prime vs. prime games require fine judgement and are amongst the most difficult of all backgammon game types to play. In a blitz, once you have started it, most of the moves are clear, in a prime v prime each individual move will require much more thought.
The position shown below is a typical prime vs. prime game with both players having two checkers trapped behind 5-point primes.
Back Game
The backgame game is when you hold two or more points in your opponent’s home board, usually as a result of lots of blots being hit. Now an excellent piece of advice: DO NOT play back games at all costs. When they go well they are wonderful, but if you lose, then you are likely to lose either a gammon or a backgammon.
The position below shows a typical back game where red is playing the back game by holding black’s 1-pt and 2-pt. As we shall see in future articles which two points you hold in your opponent’s home board are critical to the likely success, or not, of your back game.
Tips for Beginners -1
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 16th, 2009
Single checkers (blots) on a point are vulnerable to enemy attack and must start over if hit by n opponent’s checker. Two or more checkers on a point are safe from attack and can also be used for blocking or trapping your opponent.
Essentially backgammon is a race to see who takes off all of his checkers first. However, the shortest distance between two points is not always a straight line. Most beginners, rarely leave exposed checkers and hit as often as they can.
As you will find out, this seemingly logical approach is not the best strategy. The following is a simplification of some of the factors that you should consider in forming a winning game plan:
Distribution.
Distribution is how evenly your checkers are divided among the points occupied. It is usually better to have 3 checkers each on two different points rather than 4 checkers one and 2 on the other.
You should rarely have six checkers on a point and almost never have any more. A player with even distribution will seemingly get “luckier” dice than his less flexible opponent.
Exposure.
Don’t be afraid to leave shots early in the game to establish a strong offense or defense. Be more cautious as your enemy’s home board gets stronger.
The more points he has in his home board, the more difficult it will be for you to re-enter after being hit. Conversely, the more points that you control in your enemy’s home board (anchors) the bolder you may play.
Even if his board is weak, limit the number of blots (single checkers) to no more than four. If you are significantly ahead in the race or position, then restrict your exposure to maintain your lead.
Blocking and Priming.
Blocking
Try to build points without gaps between them directly in front of the enemy checkers in your home board to prevent their escape. Establishing these critical points as early as possible in approximate order of importance: 5, 4, 7 to start your blockade.
Six points in a row is called a prime. This makes it impossible for your opponent to escape for as long as you can maintain that structure.
Hitting.
Hitting
Try to hit checkers that are the most advanced or checkers that your opponent would like to cover to establish an important point. Attack only when it is advantageous to do so. For example, if you already have two enemy checkers on the bar, it is more critical to make another point in your home board than to hit a third checker.
Also refrain from hitting if it makes you more vulnerable than your opponent. Keep your objectives in mind and don’t be side-tracked. However, there is an old backgammon adage that still carries weight, “When in doubt, hit.”
Anchoring.
Anchoring
Anchoring is establishing a defensive point (anchor) in your enemies home board. This gives you a landing spot to come in on should you get hit and prevents your opponent from making his home board. Early in the game try to establish anchors on the higher points (20,21). If you become significantly behind in the race, the lower points (22,23,24) have more value as your strategy is to build your home board and wait for a shot. If you have two anchors try to keep them on adjacent points.
These are just a few ideas for the beginner to get started and is not meant as a tutorial. There are many fine books available if you want more information.
Backgammon: This Game is Crucial -3
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 16th, 2009
Challenge 2 Contd.
White’s chances of attacking or priming improve greatly if his back checkers can get into the action. For example, if Red plays 9/7, 9/6 he’ll be quite sorry if White rolls 6-6.
The men on the 22, previously blocked, leap into action 6 pips away from the Red blot, making a broken prime that puts the blot in great jeopardy.
Red’s prime is potentially useful in many other scenarios too. White could attack successfully but then fail to escape, especially if Red extends his four-in-a-row to five or six.
If Red’s blot escapes, the prime could keep White from getting into the race with big doubles and make it easier for Red to bear in, and off, safely.
Another possibility, which one sees frequently with a 22-point game, is that White could crash when Red still has a strong board, then get queezed off the anchor and succumb to an attack.
So we see that Red’s solid four-prime is an asset well worth preserving, and that an alternative to 9/7, 9/6 should be sought, but which? Playing 7/4, 6/4 or 8/5, 7/5 make good home board points but leave a double shot that might let White simultaneously hit and escape a checker, and this is even more dangerous because Red already has one blot.
Playing 8/5, 6/4 is pure and pretty, perhaps best if you know that White is going to roll 6-6, 5-5 or 6-5… but 32 shots with 3 blots is really overdoing it. Moving 13/10, 13/11 leaves a bunch of fly shots while making it easier for White to diversify in the outfield.
The right play is something easily overlooked until you have examined the alternatives. Playing 6/1* preserves Red’s assets. The fact that it is a hit softens the danger of leaving a second blot exposed to a direct shot.
It works as a tempo play, slowing down White’s incipient attack. At worst, if Red gets hit, he is still playing 4-prime vs. 4-prime with the advantage of only two back to three. Playing 6/1* isn’t the sort of thing you’d really like to be doing.
It either gets hit or buries a checker. But it is the least damaging out of a rather weak set of possibilities.
To properly appreciate the value of Red’s 4-prime, especially the point six away from White’s anchor, it helps to play the game out a few times and take note of the role played by the prime in what follows. Let’s just glance at a few of the innumerable possibilities after 6/1*.
Backgammon: This Game is Crucial -2
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 16th, 2009
Shall we begin with a fairly cheap one?
Challenge 1: Red to play 4-3.
It’s always tempting, when you don’t roll what you need, to just do something safe and hope for a better roll next time. In this case the safe play would be 8/1. Actually that’s a blunder, and Red’s natural game plan suggests a much better move.
What is Red’s plan, given that it must be to win by racing, priming, or attacking? Well we can discount racing, down 34 pips. As for attacking, that might come about in the course of things, since Red has one man back and cannot anchor. Red could commit to an attacking plan right off the bat with 7/3* 7/4, hoping that White won’t roll the 3.
Possibly Red could even pick up the other blot and close out both! But the offensive asset that stands out is the prime, so Red should think about using it to win.
Now the trouble with the prime is that it’s not good enough to do the job, with White sitting there at the edge just a six away from escaping – he is a favorite to escape in two rolls if left unhindered. Red would like to hit White’s blot off the edge or extend to a six-prime.
The stand-out play is 13/9, 13/10. Red gets hit if White rolls the 6, but a 6 was very strong anyway, so the hit doesn’t cost much. The 69% of the time White doesn’t get hit 6 Red is in great shape, with all aces and 6-5 to make the full prime, and literally every other roll hitting White’s blot.
Note that 13/6 would be very illogical, giving White good 6’s and good 1’s instead of just good 6’s, but it would still be better than 8/1. The last thing you want to do when you are trying to win by priming is to bury a checker out of play where it can’t help.
Challenge 2: Red to play 3-2.
We need not count to see that Red is far ahead in the race. Does this mean that he should ignore other assets that produce priming and attacking chances, and just make the only safe play, which happens to be 9/7, 9/6? Not necessarily.
White is playing the game too. White’s primary game plan is to attack Red’s blot. It is hard to build an effective prime against a single blot, because it constantly threatens to escape, so one must generally take the hits and home board points as the dice present them.
In the course of attacking White might still produce a prime that contains Red’s straggler effectively.
Important Starting Moves in Backgammon -2
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 15th, 2009
There used to be a lot of debate about how to play an opening of 5-3. Many experts in the 70’s and 80’s believed that making the 3 point was wrong. That they were better off making several other moves that provided them with more “flexibility” and put their checkers in better strategic places for the next move.
The problem with the others moves, however, is this :
First, it leaves exposed blots, and if hit, gives the opponent an immediate advantage, and second, an opportunity to make the 3-point has been passed up, and the 3-point, while not as critical as the bar, 5, and 4 points, is still a very good point to have. The experts of the new millennium virtually all agree with each other that it is right to make the 3 point with your 5-3, regardless of what the score is.
Here is the list of standard opening moves in backgammon with variations
* 6 – 5 run a back checker
* 6 – 4 There are three acceptable play in this situation. You can make your two point; you can run a back checker all the way out to your 14 point; you can run a back checker out to your opponent’s bar (24-18), and then bring down one checker off your midpoint (13-9).
* 6 – 3 There are two plays: you can either run a checker all the way off your 24 point, or you can run to your opponent’s bar and bring one down from your midpoint.
* 6 – 2 Two plays: run all the way, or run to the bar and bring one men down
* 6 – 1 Create your bar
* 5 – 4 Two plays: move a back checker up (24-20) and bring one down (13-8), or bring two down from the midpoint (13-8, 13-9)
* 5 – 3 Make your 3 point
* 5 – 2 Two plays: move a back checker 2 (24-22) and bring one down (13-8), or bring two down (13-8, 13-11)
* 5 – 1 Generally, it is cnsidered right to split the back checker and bring one down (24-23, 13-8). When behind in the match and a gammon win is a major plus, you might bring one down and slot your 5-point (13-8, 6-5).
* 4 – 3 This move has the most possible variations, depending on score, but generally, the experts agree that it is best to move up 3 off your back point (24-21) and bring the 4 down (13-9).
* 4 – 2 Create your 4 point.
* 4 – 1 Generally, it is right to split the back checker and bring one down (24-23, 13-9), but it is not a bad gambling play, when gammons are key, to bring one down and slot your 5 point.
* 3 – 2 This play also has many variations, but generally the experts agree that the best play is to bring you back checker up 3 (24-21) and bring a 2 down from the midpoint (13-11).
* 3 – 1 Make your 5 point
* 2 – 1 Split your back checkers (24-23) and bring one down (13-11). Here again, if you wish to gamble, bringing one down and slotting your 5 point is not a bad play.
Conclusion
Will you win more often if you make the above opening moves? Yes, you will. It has been proven, statistically.
With the aid of computer programs (Snowie and Jellyfish) we can take any move or position and play out thousands, and even millions of games to “prove” that over the long run, one play or cube decision is better than another.
So not only for the opening moves, but for EVERY MOVE, if you want to win more often, you must learn the correct move to play. It is IMPOSSIBLE to memorize the correct move for every possible position, but it certainly is possible to memorize the opening moves, so why not do so?
Important Starting Moves in Backgammon -1
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 15th, 2009
There are two very important things you should know about opening moves in backgammon
1. The experts, having studied opening moves for many years, and having the benefit of experience, the use of advanced computer programs, in combination with tremendous personal skill and intuition, have basically all agreed on what are the best opening moves for every possible dice combination.
2. If you any move other than the ones that the experts recommend, you are reducing your chance of winning the game and match.
Its that simple. You must memorize the best opening moves, and play them. Of course it will help you greatly to also understand the reason behind each move, and it will help you to also go to the next step and know and understand what the experts recommend you do on the “next” roll in response to opening moves if/when your opponent gets the opening rolls.
And of course , none of that will be of much help unless you understand how to play for the rest of the game.
But since it is impossible to learn the entire theory of how to become a backgammon expert from a single article, let me offer some help regarding the opening moves.
There is no question what to do with 3-1, 6-1, 4-2, 6-5. How to play these opening moves has been agreed to for a number of years, and the correct plays are correct for ANY match score, whether you are winning or losing by a little or a by a lot, or tied.
For all other moves, there is some debate; there are some different plays depending on the score; and the decision is not less clear.
Let’s take care of the definite ones first. With 3-1 you create your 5 point. Not only do most experts agree that the 5 point is the most important point to make (for a multitude of reasons), but any other 3-1 play exposes you to an unnecessary chance of getting hit.
Why is getting hit so bad, especially early on in the game? Because one of the overriding principles of backgammon is that every game, no matter how complex, ends up as a race to see who can get his checkers around the board and bear off first.
Everything else that happens between the first roll and the removal of the last checker is just preparation for who the one is that gets to remove that last checker. Even games that end as a result of a double/drop are because the dropper determined that he is less likely to be the one removing their last checker first.
With 6-1 you make your bar point (7 point) as that is the second most important point, and again, any other move leaves exposed blots (single checkers on a point).
With 4-2 you make your 4 point because that is also an important point, and again, you don’t want to be leaving blots. And with 6-5 you simply run a back checker all the way because it is very good for the race and again, you do not leave any exposed blots.
Backgammon Rules -7
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 15th, 2009
Additional Rules
While all the previous rules are important, and are the main rules, there are some additional or optional rules that are worth considering:
1. The Crawford and Jacoby Rule
The Crawford rule which is associated with doubling the cube states that in any match play, the player who has reached a score that where all he needs to win that match is one point, the following game may not involve the use of the doubling cube.
However, in the occasion that the winning player ends up not winning that game, his opponent can use the doubling cube in all the following games up till the end of the match.
The Jacoby rule however, is not a compulsory rule. It is only optional and players often have to agree if they will be playing with it in mind or not. The Jacoby rule is often used in money games and it states that when no cube has been offered in a money game, the gammons and backgammons do not count and are therefore not counted per se.
With it in effect, it helps speed up play by ensuring that instances where players might want to keep away from doubling for the purpose of playing on for a gammon are eliminated
2. Other Optional Rules
There are other rules that are worth looking at and are in widespread use by different players all across the globe. The first is called Automatic Doubles. This based on the premise that in the first roll, it is possible that identical numbers will be the first throw.
If this happens, the stakes involved are doubled and the doubling cube is turned to 2 and remains in the middle. For the purpose of protecting themselves from multiple identical number throws, most players would often reach an agreement about not having more than one automatic doubles in a single game.
The second optional rule is known as Beavers.
1. Automatic doubles. If identical numbers are thrown on the first roll, the stakes are doubled. The doubling cube is turned to 2 and remains in the middle. Players usually agree to limit the number of automatic doubles to one per game.
2. Beavers. When a player is doubled, he may immediately redouble (beaver) while retaining possession of the cube. The original doubler has the option of accepting or refusing as with a normal double.
Rules of Backgammon -6
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 13th, 2009
Bearing Off -2
In continuation of the article on bearing off, here is a better explanation to make it easier to understand:
Let’s say for instance that Player A has 2 checkers on his 5 point and another two on his 4 point and eventually rolls a crucial 5-4. If Player B who is the opponent is waiting on the 3 point for a blot to open, Player A should not have to leave any blot by bearing off two of his checkers –one on the 5 point, and the second one on the 4 point.
Instead, he is allowed to bear off the checker on the 5 point and then move the second checker on the four point with the 4 of the dice roll over to the 2 point. This kind of move which is perfectly legal can prevent Player A from being hit.
Sometimes, in the process of bearing off, a player might get to a situation where it looks like the two numbers of his roll is moved without necessarily removing or bearing off one of his checkers. Doing this depends on the positions his checkers are on at that point in time.
For instance, if he has three checkers that he could bear off, each one of them on the 1, 3, 4, and 5 points, and he rolls his dice coming up with a 6-2, it is obvious that none of the checkers on will bear off. But, to move the 6 and 2, the player has to use those positioned on the 3 and 5 point.
To be able to bear off effectively without any problems or delays, it is always better for a player to have all of his own active checkers in HIS own home board. Sometimes, during the process of bearing off, a checker gets hit.
When this happens, there is nothing the player can do in terms of bearing off until he brings the checker back to his own home board. After the checker is nestled safely in his home board, he can continue with the bear off if he so wishes. To win a game, all a player needs to do is bear off all 15 of his checkers.
Doubling
Doubling
Before players proceed on a game of backgammon, there is a stake per point agreed on by both the players and moderators. Often times, the game starts at one point. However, a player who feels confident that he has better advantage during the game can suggest a doubling of stakes.
This he can only do before rolling the dice or starting his turn. An opponent, who feels he cannot match up with the suggestion, can refuse but he will have to pay one point or allow the doubler score the win.
Doubling Cube
In the event that he cannot afford to concede or part with one point, he has to accept the double and play with the new higher stakes. When a player does this –accepts a double- he becomes what is known as the owner of the cube and is the only one who can propose the next double.
It is possible in games to have multiple proposals for doubling the stakes. When this happens in a game, it is called redoubles. Refusing to accept a redouble will cost the refusing player the number of points at stake prior to the redouble.
Rules of Backgammon -5
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 13th, 2009
Bearing Off -1
Sometimes, in backgammon, a point is reached in which a player rolls the dice and the number if the dice comes up with corresponds with a point on the board the checker is removed until all of the checkers are removed.
For instance, let’s say a player rolls the dice and he gets a 3 and a 5, if he has checkers on his home board on the 3 and 5 points, he can remove them as they correspond with the numbers on the dice.
However, a player may decide that he doesn’t want to remove any checker if he believes he has a more strategic play in the offing. Bearing off however is not to be commenced until all the fifteen checkers are on a player’s home board.
Sometimes, a player might not get so lucky in that he may not have a checker on the corresponding point. For instance he rolls a 3 and has no checker on the three point. If this happens, the player can move a checker that is on a higher point (often referred to as a high-numbered point).
If there are no checkers on a higher numbered point, it is perfectly ok to take or remove any checker that is on the next available highest point possible. To explain further, if for example, while bearing off, a player has rolled a 5 but no longer has any checkers on the 5 point, but does have one or more checkers on his 6 point, he must move the 5 from his 6 point over to his 1 point.
If he has no checkers on either the 5 or 6 point and has rolled a 5, or even a 6 for that matter, he is allowed to remove a checker from the next lower point where checkers remain. You must note however, that a player must not necessarily bear off if he feels he has another legal move to make.
To clarify this further, doublets particularly play an important role in bearing off as they can help a player win the game faster. if a player is really good or has a good hand with the dice, he can bear off four checkers with just a single roll of the dice.
One other important tip to note here is if a player happens to have a checker on the bar or in the home board of another player who is bearing off, the player with the bearing off advantage should ensure that he does not have to necessarily leave blots.
This is because when blots are created is hit by the opponent, it gives the opponent a chance to stop or delay the bearing off by the second player. As the checker affected by the hit has to re-circulate from the bar to the opponent’s home board from where it will attempt to make its way back into the bearing off player’s home board.
The long and short of this is, to continue bearing off or bear off without any interruption, you need all your checkers on your own home board otherwise, your bearing off will be delayed or stopped.
Rules of Backgammon -1
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 13th, 2009
Backgammon has come a very long way. During the early introductory period, backgammon never really had any complex rules, most people just played it with the rules they wanted. But with time, came structure and with structure came rules of the game.
Because backgammon has been existing for a long time, the rules have undergone a lot of modifications. But for the sake of this article, the rules we will be looking at will involve those relevant to the present period.
It is also important to note here that the backgammon board can be used to play different games and each of these games have their own rules and play patterns.
However, standard backgammon is that which is played at international tournaments, online and live competitions.
While it is simpler to just list the rules, it will be better if the rules are categorized so as to make it easier for you to read and understand.
Some of the categories that will be necessary to look at is the setup, object of the game, movement of checkers, hitting and entering, bearing off, doubling, scoring, the Crawford and Jacoby rules et.c. The key to succeeding and mastering the game of backgammon is by mastering or knowing these rules properly.
Know these rules, and you would have already started your journey to professional backgammon and mastering the game properly.
Backgammon is a game of two players where each of the players is on the opposing side. The game is played on a board with markings of twenty four triangles. Each of these triangles is also known as “points”.
Each of the players takes 15 checkers which will be moved round the board until they are gotten off the board and a pair of dice with dice cup which will be used for shaking and tossing the dice.
Also included in the game is a doubling cube which is often used when any of the players wants to double the stakes. This cube is marked with six numbers -2, 4,8,16, 32, and 64.
Board Setting Up
Backgammon Setup
The board is made up of triangles which are classified into four quadrants (sections) of six points (triangles) each. These points are also referred to as “pips”. Each of these four quadrants are further separated into the home board and outer board for a player and the opponent.
So each player gets two quadrants. These boards (home and outer) are separated by a median divide or ridge known as the bar which separates the board into two equal halves. The checkers are moved by each player in the opposite direction, clockwise and counter-clockwise.
The board can also be setup in a reverse position depending on the choice of the players. It is better as a backgammon player that you know how to use the two starting positions.
One more important thing that you need to know is that backgammon boards are not exactly marked with the names of the sections, number of triangles. The initial arrangement of checkers is: 2 on each player’s 24 point, 5 on each player’s 13 point, 3 on each player’s 8 point, and 5 on each player’s 6 point.
Introduction to Backgammon
Posted by oscar in Backgammon, Board Games on January 13th, 2009
Backgammon Board
Board games have a very long history and have been used for the purposes of recreation and intellectual stimulation for a long time. As a result, the demand for board games and even new ones are always high.
There are many board games. Some are as old as 2000 years, others as old as just 5 years. Either way, they all serve the same purpose of recreation, intellectual stimulation and more recently, a source of cash and money for professional players who enjoy them.
While there are quite a few very popular board games, not all of them are easy to master –forget the fact that they are played by many. One of the many board games that have a lot of interest is backgammon. It is one of the world’s oldest board games and by some people’s standard, no other game is better.
Although this is still debatable, many agree it is a fun game and has the abi9lity to keep you engaged for a long time without the usual feeling of boredom that accompanies many of such games.
The game of backgammon is made up three basic game components that seem to look like checkers or stones and the dice. The purpose of the dice in the game is to create random moves.
However, the board itself is the most prominent piece and is what easily attracts anyone’s attention. The game board itself is rectangularly shaped with differently colored triangles which are what determine the position in which the game pieces are positioned.
One common characteristic of the game is that it belongs to the group of is not often the same as mastering the game and becoming a pro at games often known as the race games –games in which the winner is the first to get to a certain point on the board or the first person/player to clear his pieces from the board.
Thus, backgammon is a relatively easy game and it is possible to get a grasp of the game and know the rules within a few minutes of introduction to the game.
Proficiency in the game often comes after a few good games. However, proficiency in the basic play methods the game is not the same as mastering the game and becoming a pro at it.
To get to a professional status or level, you have to take note of the following:
1. Master the rules very properly (As with all games, this is essential)
2. Appreciate the odds of the many possible dice combinations.
3. Your opponents playing ability.
4. Must develop the ability to lose gallantly until you become a pro.
In conclusion, backgammon is a well known board game loved by over 30 million people globally. The number of websites, books and tutorials published because of it attests to this fact. However, do not be scared of the game. Take it in good stride and have fun while you play. Happy Backgammoning.
Oscar
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